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Seems like an awful waste of money. If anything, just go with forged pistons and plan to run N2O. Stock rods are forged from the factory and very strong. If you want to reduce reciprocating weght, I'd take the rotating assembly to someone so they can knifeedge the counterweights and lighten it up for you. Spend the money you would on those fancy-smanchy Ti rods and buy yourself a lightweight flywheel, good clutch, CF driveshaft, underdrive pulley, and go with a set of electric cooling fans. While your in the engine, be sure to punch out the coolant galley casting flash and clean up the ports on the deck and on the head. IT makes a big difference when it comes to cooling. Punch out the block 0.060 over for some additional displacement. Go up a grade on your bearings. Smooth the piston crowns and combustion chamber to leave no sharp edges to luminesce. Port the f*ck out of the intake and exhaust and match the valve seats to the ports. Have the block measured and inspected for any warpage or mis-machining from the factory. My block had a 0.003" difference in deck height from the frontal cylinders to the rear cylinders - if you find this, have them mill the block deck.
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[ agpowers@bellsouth.net ] [ Zemulator Information Sheet ] When pigs dance, you better get it on video... "You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive."
-George Carlin
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06:19:42 01/03/03
